Alan Jones' Sheep Milk, Tres leches.
Alan Jones at Derwen Gam: A Portrait of Sustainable Farming
When February rolls around, I always pick up the phone and call Alan Jones. Lambing season is just around the corner, but that's not why I'm reaching out. My interest lies in the milk—rich, flavourful, and deeply rooted in the traditions of organic farming on the Lleyn Peninsula.
Alan Jones, an organic farmer based near Pwllheli, North Wales, operates his farm, Derwen Gam (Welsh for “Crooked Oak”), where he breeds Lleyn sheep, a breed native to the peninsula and parts of Ireland. These sheep produce milk of exceptional quality, thanks to Alan’s innovative use of herbal leys—a method that underpins the health of his flock and the distinct flavour of their milk.
Alan has been working with sheep for three years, building a flock that now numbers 200, with 120 ewes dedicated to milk production. Lleyn sheep, known for their prolific breeding and calm temperament, have a storied history. In the 1970s, their population dwindled to around 7,000, but they’ve since seen a resurgence, particularly in Yorkshire and Lancashire. These hardy ewes thrive on the grassy pastures of the British Isles, producing abundant milk that is the cornerstone of Alan’s operation.
Central to Alan’s success is his commitment to a strict herbal ley system. A herbal ley is a complex mixture of grasses, herbs, and legumes maintained through careful grazing. Frank Newman Turner, a pioneer in organic farming, described such pastures as his “manure merchant, food manufacturer, and vet all in one.” For Alan, the benefits are clear: the system saves money and time while providing his flock with exactly what they need when they need it.
Alan’s decision to adopt organic methods is rooted in good business sense. He transitioned from cattle to sheep farming after the devastating foot-and-mouth crisis, which ravaged farms across the UK, including his own. Embracing sheep farming, and by extension, the herbal ley system, was a calculated move to ensure the sustainability of his farm and livelihood.
It’s important to remember that farmers must first make a living. Many turn to fertilisers and antibiotics as a means of ensuring consistent crop and livestock growth, while pesticides and fungicides keep weeds and pests at bay. These tools were introduced to help farmers avoid bankruptcy, feed their families, and ease the strain of long, demanding days. However, this reliance has also handed control to agrochemical companies, fueling the rise of intensive farming practices.
Yet, as Alan demonstrates, there have always been alternatives—traditional methods that require more planning and a deeper understanding of nature. Organic and biodynamic labels aside, these practices are rooted in sound ethical principles that benefit the land, economy, and human health.
Alan’s herbal leys are a marvel. The vibrant colors, sweet aromas, and soft, springy texture underfoot create an ecosystem that is not only beautiful but also incredibly efficient. A simple rotational grazing system keeps the pastures short and lush, reducing the need for weeding, ploughing, or fertilising. The various herbs nourish both the soil and the sheep, providing medicinal benefits along the way.
Each component of Alan’s ley plays a unique role in this delicate balance. Grasses like wester-wolds ryegrass, Timothy, cocksfoot, meadow fescue, and creeping red fescue thrive in the British climate, offering a cheap and abundant food source. Westerwolds, with its fast growth and high sugar content, is ideal for silage, while cocksfoot, with its deep roots, aids drainage and enriches the soil. Red fescue, drought-tolerant and dense, provides surplus forage.
Legumes, such as white clover, red clover, sainfoin, sweet clover, and vetches, complement the grasses by fixing nitrogen from the air into the soil, eliminating the need for artificial fertilisers. These plants are rich in protein and medicinal properties, boosting animal welfare and performance. White clover, for instance, is a vital part of any organic farm. It thrives in nitrogen-deficient soils and plays a crucial role in the diet of sheep, cleansing their blood, aiding digestion, and balancing cholesterol.
Sainfoin, another key legume, enriches the soil with nitrogen and provides high-protein feed for the sheep. Its tannins prevent bloat and act as a natural wormer for lambs. Sainfoin also helps reduce methane emissions from ruminants, a significant environmental benefit. Sweet clover and vetches, meanwhile, contribute to soil structure and outcompete weeds, further enhancing the ley’s effectiveness.
Herbs, with their deep-rooting systems, aerate the soil, reducing the need for tractors and their diesel consumption. These plants, including chicory, ribgrass, yarrow, and burnet, are packed with micronutrients that enhance the sheep’s diet and, by extension, the milk they produce. Chicory, a favorite of Alan’s, is especially valuable for its drought resistance, high yield, and anthelmintic properties, which help prevent intestinal parasites.
Alan’s dedication to this method is evident as he walks through his pastures, pointing out each plant and explaining its benefits. His rotational grazing system, though initially met with skepticism by his neighbors, ensures that the sheep always have access to the freshest and most nutrient-rich forage. This system not only benefits the sheep but also saves Alan time and money, as the meadows require reseeding only every three years.
The results speak for themselves. Alan spends his days outdoors, surrounded by thriving fields and healthy, contented sheep. The land is alive with vegetation, providing a habitat for insects, birds, and other wildlife, while the soil is continually replenished, and the air is kept clean. The milk, thick, creamy, and rich in vitamins and minerals, is a testament to the success of this system.
Alan’s milk finds its way to three places: Cariad Bakery in Anglesey, Carrie Rimes of Cosyn Cymru, a sheep cheese producer in Bethesda, and Where the Light Gets In, a restaurant in Stockport. Here, it flows through the menu, from yogurt and curds to ice cream garnished with caramel made from leftover whey. The demand is high, and we feel incredibly fortunate to work with this exceptional product, which all begins with what might appear to be just a field full of grass.
